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How much do you want for it. I got a friend that might be interested
How much does it cost to get signatures authenticated? I'm assuming signatures without COAs are essentially worthless?
If you go through a third party, i.e. PSA/DNA or JSA, they are about $20-$30 each to authenticate, unless they are a HOFer, etc, in which case price can vary from there. Team signed items will have a lower authentication cost, maybe $75 for the whole item.
It's really only worth it if you have a high end signature on a high end item that you plan on reselling. Autographs obtained in person are usually sloppier than a sit down signing, and so few are worth getting authenticated anyway.
If you go through a third party, i.e. PSA/DNA or JSA, they are about $20-$30 each to authenticate, unless they are a HOFer, etc, in which case price can vary from there. Team signed items will have a lower authentication cost, maybe $75 for the whole item.
It's really only worth it if you have a high end signature on a high end item that you plan on reselling. Autographs obtained in person are usually sloppier than a sit down signing, and so few are worth getting authenticated anyway.
I got a Mario Williams signed ball (football with white panels and Texans logo) with COA. Any idea how to find out what it's worth? I doubt I would sell it, just curious. It's in a display case in my man cave.
May sound somewhat backward but you'd have a much more valuable situation if you had FOUR different balls with HOFers autographs. The fact that they're all on the same ball actually DEvalues the worth and marketability of the ball. You're very, very limited in your market. You're pretty much guaranteeing yourself that you're only going to sell it to an old Oilers fan (of which I am), rather than a Moon, Munchak or Matthews fan. I've passed on a lot of items because it had multiple autos on it, rather than a single.Got an interesting football signed by a lot of the '91 team. What's best way to store that, and what's the estimated value? Has Moon, Munchak's and Matthews sigs and some others (Pinkett, Doc #29, Alm). I'll include pics, if anybody just wants to see.
Sentiment (while great as a collector) is devastating as a seller. Honest truth is you're probably better holding onto the ball and letting it become a conversation piece or just something you cherish because of all the memories. Looking at your pics, I'd say that if you listed the ball (inflated) on ebay and had some better pics of it, you'd be lucky to fetch $35-45 for the ball. I know that's not gonna feel good going down, and if the sun, moon and stars all line up and you get a good battle between a couple of hardcore Oilers fans...you may fetch as much as $75...but I don't see that happening. JMO of course.The sentimental value is probably too much for me to honestly give a fair price that wouldn't be outrageous to other people, especially since I'm not totally sure what its condition would be considered in. Kinda thinking about keeping it as an heirloom more than anything. PM me if you want to discuss what your friend would be willing to pay for this piece.
Companies charge to authenticate each individual auto. The cost of authenticating the ball w/multiple autos would exceed the value of the item.How much does it cost to get signatures authenticated? I'm assuming signatures without COAs are essentially worthless?
Mario on an NFL ball would fetch more than on a Texans ball--for the same reason as listed above. A Bills fan is much less likely to buy an auto on a Texans ball than on an NFL ball. Gotta pretty much hope for a Texans fan that is still sad seeing Mario go and will hold onto HIM as a player rather than being a fan of him because he's on the Texans. I'd say probably worth $50 if you're lucky. Ebay has a small handful of Mario auto footballs and they're with COA and a BIN of $100. No takers.I got a Mario Williams signed ball (football with white panels and Texans logo) with COA. Any idea how to find out what it's worth? I doubt I would sell it, just curious. It's in a display case in my man cave.
Being an autograph hound and attending a lot of shows the answer to 'what is it worth' is 'what is a dealer' or better yet 'what is an end user willing to pay for it.'
The autograph business is tough and not very profitable unless you really know what you're doing. You need to emgere yourself in it and learn, learn, learn.
But back on point, take it to a few different dealers in town and see what they would buy it from you for. It's probably 25-40% of what they would retail it for.
May sound somewhat backward but you'd have a much more valuable situation if you had FOUR different balls with HOFers autographs. The fact that they're all on the same ball actually DEvalues the worth and marketability of the ball. You're very, very limited in your market. You're pretty much guaranteeing yourself that you're only going to sell it to an old Oilers fan (of which I am), rather than a Moon, Munchak or Matthews fan. I've passed on a lot of items because it had multiple autos on it, rather than a single.
Sentiment (while great as a collector) is devastating as a seller. Honest truth is you're probably better holding onto the ball and letting it become a conversation piece or just something you cherish because of all the memories. Looking at your pics, I'd say that if you listed the ball (inflated) on ebay and had some better pics of it, you'd be lucky to fetch $35-45 for the ball. I know that's not gonna feel good going down, and if the sun, moon and stars all line up and you get a good battle between a couple of hardcore Oilers fans...you may fetch as much as $75...but I don't see that happening. JMO of course.
Yeah after looking around at different places I'd probably settle on getting it re-inflated and then authenticated (which is probably as much or more than $75) and then passing it down. I know team signed balls are hard to sell due to having multiple sigs and most of them not being of the quality of a signature that the athlete was able to do while sitting down in the A/C and not right after practice.
It's not like I paid for the ball and I have to worry about flipping it for profit, I looked at it as a nice exercise in finding out more about the autograph industry.
Ebay is also a great place to look and see what autographs are going just on auction, but Craigslist (especially if you list in the home cities that the players signatures might originate from) seems to have more inflated prices.
BTW, In my adventures of finding out more about my balls (TWSS), I found that JSA is going to be at a convention in Humble doing auto authentications for about $10 per. I'm planning on taking my Bum football, Pastorini football, and a newly acquired Bruce Matthews ball to em to get authenticated. Could be a place for some of you other autograph guys may go to get the authenticity papers if that's what your after with your collection.
Yeah after looking around at different places I'd probably settle on getting it re-inflated and then authenticated (which is probably as much or more than $75) and then passing it down. I know team signed balls are hard to sell due to having multiple sigs and most of them not being of the quality of a signature that the athlete was able to do while sitting down in the A/C and not right after practice.
It's not like I paid for the ball and I have to worry about flipping it for profit, I looked at it as a nice exercise in finding out more about the autograph industry.
Ebay is also a great place to look and see what autographs are going just on auction, but Craigslist (especially if you list in the home cities that the players signatures might originate from) seems to have more inflated prices.
BTW, In my adventures of finding out more about my balls (TWSS), I found that JSA is going to be at a convention in Humble doing auto authentications for about $10 per. I'm planning on taking my Bum football, Pastorini football, and a newly acquired Bruce Matthews ball to em to get authenticated. Could be a place for some of you other autograph guys may go to get the authenticity papers if that's what your after with your collection.
LYB did a pretty good job. I would like to add that you should at least compare the signatures to one online before running to the authenticating company. If it looks real to YOU --then-- go spend the money it costs to get authenticated. JSA's a very very reputable authenticator. I'd take everything I had ten bucks each. That's a screaming deal as long as you can deal with the long lines. It's a convention so expect plenty of people.